Tuesday, 6 October 2015

Day: 163 31/8/96 Sandwich to Margate

Weather:  fine, warm

Distance: 23.0 km ( 14.3 miles)    Total Distance:   2059.7 miles

I made it away from the house by 6am. You can always tell it is early because the fishing programme, Dirty Tackle, is on Radio 5.  Today they were interviewing a top casting champion. It took me a while to realise that in casting championships, no fish are involved, they cast on dry land at a target. Why? 

I parked the car at Sandwich train station in the suburbs, and went to ask train times back from Margate in the afternoon.  The lady very helpfully wrote the times down for me.  Service with a smile.  

The very first part of this walk was good, along the banks of the river and into Sandwich.  For the next hour however things got a lot worse, along main roads, past the Pfizer works and laboratories who were in the process of building an effluent treatment plant, and then along a worse main road without a pavement towards Ramsgate, past a power station. 

Eventually I reached a point where a coastal path began. Here a Viking boat replica was on display, along with oars and shields.  The cliffs at this tip of Kent were low, only 50 feet high and chalk. The first bit of cliff top path looked down over Pegwell Bay, a vast expanse of what looked like mud.  The remains of the hovercraft landing structures were being worked on.  It looked like they were being demolished.  No hovercrafts landed here these days I believe.  I had to cut inland a bit at Pegwell itself before getting down onto the lower promenade and heading to Ramsgate.  A very dilapidated area just before the port looked like a sign of bad things to come, but as soon as I walked through the port area things looked up.  I stopped in the Stagecoach offices to pick up a bus timetable even though I had more or less made my mind up to use the more expensive but more relaxing train option.

I tried to stay on the lower promenade but it eventually ran out without much warning and I had to backtrack a couple of hundred yards to get onto the cliff top.  I soon arrived at St George’s park and a cafe flying the St George’s flag looked so inviting I stopped for lunch - tea, cake and crisps on the plastic furniture on the grass.  It was a popular place with dog walkers all who seemed to need refreshment when reaching the cafe. 

I liked Broardstairs from the moment I saw it.  Full of very large cliff top housed mostly converted into homes for the elderly on the southern side and then a quaint little town which was named after a mixture of Dickensian references and Italian cafe owners.  After the decent and ascent out of the town it was onto the cliffs again.  One point near a disused school forced me inland and I made an error of trying to regain the coast too soon and had a fruitless trek down to a cove and back up again.  Not long after that I took a road marked up as private which took me down to the coast - full of very large houses - given that Ted Heath lives in Broardstairs its probably not a bad guess he lives here.  Southern Water had kindly built a new sewage works at the end of the road, no doubt halving the value of some houses overnight.  At the tip of North Foreland I stopped and took a deep breath because this was the tip of Kent  and the end of the South Coast!

The surfers were enjoying the rough seas off North Forehand.  Onto the road again, past a private castle and then back to the coast again. The tide was very high by now, smashing into and over the promenades in spectacular fashion meaning I stayed on the cliff tops.  Margate was a 'kiss me quick' seaside resort in the full and not very impressive on a busy Saturday afternoon after a long walk.

I got to the station and then had a long train journey back to Sandwich with a long change at Ramsgate, but at least a train station is a reasonably nice place to wait around as opposed to a bus station.  Some boys on their last days of summer holidays got on at Margate and disrupted the peace of the journey. 


I got to Broardstairs YHA to be surprised that it was a town house as opposed to the usual mansion I had come to expect from the YHA!  The dorm was in the basement but fine.  I met a lad over from Japan.  I went for tea in Broardstairs and had a massive portion of gammon, egg and chips in the Prince Albert.  It was so large the gammon balanced on top of the peas and chips and salad and the egg on top of that. 

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