Tuesday, 11 November 2014

Day:122 21/7/94 Totnes to Kingswear


Weather: Hot and little breeze      Distance: 22km (13.7 miles)      Total Distance: 1517 miles


I caught the 7.50am bus from Kingsbridge to Totnes, which was much more civilised than the Dartmouth bus I caught earlier in the week and got there faster.  Any time I saved however I lost again getting out of Totnes because I got lost on a housing estate. I wished I had invested in a local street map similar to the one I had used in Plymouth.  I asked a couple of people the way and eventually found my way onto a country lane/path down to Fleet Mill.

 
The lady in the Tourist Information Office in Totnes had told me the previous day that she had once driven down this way to avoid a traffic jam. Unless she was driving a tank she was very much mistaken; it was an overgrown path and not a farm track, but at least it appeared to be a right of way. I had to keep moving because in the hot and humid weather, the horse flies were everywhere and would settle on me if I had stopped. The only sign that anything else had ever used this isolated path was a few horse prints in the mud. 
 
Just before I got to Fleet Mill, the path became a mud bath and there was no way I could get through unless Id been prepared to let the mud get well over my ankles. Instead I jumped over the fence and into a stream for 10 yards, after which I came out at Fleet Mills, which seemed to be a holiday cottage. The man exercising his dog in the garden had a look of incredulity on his face when he saw me.

This days walk would have been much nicer in slightly cooler and breezier conditions to keep off the horse flies.

The track back up to Ash was also hemmed in by hedges but perfectly passable.  It was a shame that the hedgerows prevented me from seeing anything else other than the path in front.  A track from Ash then took me into the back streets of Stoke Gabriel.  On a second attempt, and after seeing another family out walking, I found the path that led down and along the estuary. This path had only been opened a month previously according to a public notice I saw in Ash. 

This led to a weir which formed a lake inland.  I asked the car park attendant if there was a public right of way on the other side. He said not officially but would be very surprised if I were challenged.  I had a pot of tea and caramel slice in the cafe next to the weir before crossing the slippery weir with caution and up through the woods on a good track - the best part of the day.  There than followed a road section before I cut off down to Galmpton Creek. 
 
I was unsure from the map what I would find because it looked like a quarry but was in fact a series of boat yards heavy on security to the extent of having a gate-person.  There was then a stroll through some fields coming out on the road at a farm.  I headed south thinking that I may be able to cut through some tracks but it was a private estate house, so I headed back up the hill towards the Youth Hostel entrance, and then up another hedged in path up to the main road.  What a pity there is no public right of way along the estuary at this stage.

The walk along the main road, initially up to Hillhead and than down again to the estuary to the main road, was the most dangerous of the week and only some of the views made it at all interesting.  The last part was steep down to one of the ferry points.  I met a backpacker heading up the hill for the Youth Hostel - pity help him if he walked the way I had along the main road.

The last part of the days walk was along beside the railway and just as I was coming into Kingswear I was passed by the steam train and only just avoided getting a drenching when the train released a sizable quantity of water next to my feet!

I had to wait a while in a queue for the ferry to Dartmouth since it was jammed with people who had just got off the train.  Once over the river I bought an ice cream and a paper and waited for the bus back to Kingsbridge.  I got home to High House farm at 4.20, the only time on the week where I did not join the family for afternoons activities.  There was no sign of the farm manager where I thought my wife may have left the key, and just as I was contemplating a hot wait in the sun I realised that the patio door had been left open.
 

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