Sunday, 26 October 2014

Day: 114 28/5/94 Knighton to Stoke


Weather: Fine     Distance:  21 km (13 miles)     Total Distance: 1427 miles


This was to be the first part of my coastal path walk that I was backpacking.  It just seemed to make sense; hitching was becoming more difficult and I was having to walk long distances at the end of the day sometimes.  There was little public transport on this section and I was not keen on the bike and car option.

I had very much enjoyed planning this holiday; the accommodation and the travelling by train.  I had bought my train tickets from Coventry to Plymouth, Plymouth to Ireland via Holyhead and back to Coventry for £102 (a strange route you may think but I was combining this walk with a holiday to Ireland).
 
The first part of the days walk was a very early start to walk to Coventry station.  My son was not awake when I left the house before 7 o'clock.  In Birmingham it soon became evident why I had had to reserve a seat.  The train was absolutely full.  I sat next to an elderly couple from Derby.  He was a retired steam train driver with some interesting tales.  We passed over the M5 at times where the traffic was stationary on this busy bank holiday weekend.  I had to laugh when at the end of a very smooth journey and arriving in Plymouth 8 minutes early, and having to wait outside the station for a couple of minutes, someone started complaining that BR run the trains with plenty of slack in the timetable in on purpose so they have less chance of having to pay out compensation.

In Plymouth I took a shuttle bus into the centre and then managed to catch an earlier bus than I had planned to Knighton, even though I forgot the name of the place I wanted to go and the bus drivers looked at me very strange when I got my map out!
 
The first part of the walk was on the road, but it was not long before I was stopping to change from my daps into my walking boots to take to country paths.  This part of my planing worked well - changing into daps to do the road parts saved my feet getting sore.  I say daps but they were in fact Nike -Air Cushion; my first proper pair of trainers for many years; expensive but very comfortable.  I had spent a small fortune a couple of weeks previously on a visit to Olympus sports shop on the outskirts of Leicester to get a good anorak and over-trousers, daps and a rucksack.

The path dropped down through some woods, and then across farmland.  I got a little lost coming into Combe and had to backtrack a bit, mainly because I has misread the map - not a good start.  I passed some picturesque parts, past a guide camp but was then thwarted going down a path towards the river; I made it a couple of hundred yards but then the path disappeared.  Back up into Coombe, I bought a pasty for lunch but it was not very nice; and neither was the next section along the main road.  That is the disadvantage with backpacking, it is much harder to jump into the hedgerows. Once off the main road, the remainder of the walk to Newton Ferrers was along minor roads, of minimal interest. It was a shame that there was no path along the estuary to have saved me this road section.

Coming into Newton Ferrers I stopped to buy a drink and food and the owner helped me find my way through the village.  The walk through the top of the village was again not all the impressive but I soon dropped down to the river through a little wood to return eastwards along the road.  Part of the path itself by the estuary was closed because of a collapse so that is why the walking I was along the road.  I passed the International Paint testing station; one of the smaller parts of the Courtaulds empire.  I thought it was ironic that the paint on the sign was all faded.

The tide was out so I was able to walk over the stepping stones to Noss Mayo. It was a larger place than I had imagined, so I stopped at the post office to ask the way to my B&B, but they were new arrivals and did not know. I walked up the river and asked again. By this time I was only a short distance away.  My B&BB was a modern type house perched high above Noss Mayo.  The owners were working in the garden enjoying the sun. I put my stuff in my room and then went down to have a cup of tea.  I did not see much of the owners all my time there, they kept themselves hidden away.

It was still fairly early, so I decided I would walk around the headland, taking advantage of not having to carry my backpack.  After walking back into the village, a walk through a nice wooded area than bought me out onto the headland. There were good views across the different rivers and then over towards the far side of the river at Plymouth, towards Kingsand.  The grass on the headland was very lush. It was like walking through a meadow rather than on a coastal path.

I kept wondering whether to cut back to Noss Mayo shortening the walk, but in the end walked all the way around to Stoke and back on the minor roads.  I had a shower and then went down to the pub for dinner.  It was heavily populated by the Birmingham Navy (as Princess Ann calls them) - those people who jam the M5 on a Friday night towing their boats.  The Good Pub Food Guide had recommended it, but it was very ordinary as far as I could see.  I did not stay too long and went back for a another cup of coffee which the landlady offered me and early an night - it had been a very long day.

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