Thursday, 24 August 2017

Day: 208 15/5/99 Thornham to Kings Lynn

Weather:  Sunny

Distance:  34 km (21.1miles)    Total Distance:   2706 miles

A single days walking today.  The forecast was reasonable and it made sense to walk the next section from Thornham to King’s Lynn in a single stretch.  I set out at 6.45 pm and was at Thornham by 9.15 am.  I picked up a middle aged hitch-hiker at King’s Lynn and dropped him off at Hunstanton – he was off to work at a chip shop cutting the potatoes into chips and then as a bingo caller in the afternoon.  He hitched this road every morning because it would cost him over £25 per week in bus fares.  He told me how the police had ticked him off for hitching in a busy place the week before.

The forecast was completely wrong – it said heavy cloud and possible drizzle but by the time got to Thornham it was bright sunshine and it stayed that way all day.  The first part was along a nature reserve and over dunes mainly along boarding that made the walking easier than walking on the sand itself. 

At the end of the nature reserve I took to the beach where I also found pretty good firm sand.  Coming into Old Hunstanton I watched two blokes on go-cart type things pulling themselves along using a kite type things – there is probably a technical name for them!  What I had not realised was how complicated it was to operate them because they had to get the kite going and them manoeuvre themselves and sit down on the go cart and then nudge themselves along to get going. 

The weird low cliffs of Hunstanton then soon appeared.  They have a light grey upper layer and a red brown lower layer almost as if the brown was a stain of the cliffs.  Nesting seagulls squawked at me as I walked close to the base of the cliffs. 

I did not get a very good impression of Hunstanton because all I could see from the promenade was the usual seaside buildings of chip shops, amusement arcades etc.  I stopped at the southern end of the town for a mug of coffee and kit Kat (£1-05) at a caravan-kiosk. 

The next three or so miles appeared to be caravan parks all the way to south of Stubborn Sands but they were discreetly behind the sea defences.  Just before that however there was a mile or so of individually designed housed of all shapes and sizes overlooking the beach – most of them built with upstairs balconies to make the most of the sea views. 

I had phoned up someone from the King’s Lynn ramblers the previous day to get the lie of the land.  He had told me that he had just been down to Snettisham to discuss with some beach hut owners some no-entry signs they had just put up. It turned out that I was still walking on the beach at this stage so only saw the sign at the far end just as I was coming up off the beach and onto the path I had seen a couple of cyclists using.  

I kept to the path around the bird reserve.  The King’s Lynn rambler had told me that this section was not a public footpath but discussions had been underway for some ten years with the Prince of Wales and local wildfowlers to try to get the path opened up.  He told me that being a lone walker I could possibly chance my arm and give it a go that I planned to do.  I quite fancied the idea of appearing in court up against the Prince of Wales! I was afraid of being spotted right at the start by farmers so headed off across the marshes to try to get onto the Sandringham farm land coast path without been seen. It turned out that this was a mistake and I soon ended up backtracking out of the long grass and marshes to the bottom of the bird reserve again, loosing some ten minutes plus in the process.  I need not have worried because the buildings were more like store housed than farms proper.  I soon got onto the coastal path – there were no keep-out signs, but the grass was long and the first half-mile difficult to walk. 

For the next couple of hours I was worried about being stopped by a farmer, but at the same time happy that it was saving me so much time and not having to walk inland.  There was usually a good enough path either on top of the sea defence or along the tack on the landward side.  At one stage I disturbed a herd of cows grazing on the sea defences and inland grassy verge.  They rushed off ahead of me each time I approached.  I was afraid this would attract attention.  I eventually lost them when they went down on the marsh side and I dropped down on the landward side.  Only once did I see a tractor and then I dropped down on the marsh side of the sea defence for a while. 

I was pleased to see King’s Lynn starting to appear in the distance and after a detour up a creek and back out, rejoined official footpath, over looking he Grat River Ouse.  Again there were no no-entry signs on this end either – I can only presume that although it is private they are not too fussed about this coastal section being walked.  I passed a blacksmith with all his kit in the back of a van – gas version of a furnace I guess about to shoe a couple of horses.  I then passed the Dow Chemical plant – I recalled how when I was working in Minnesota I had had an interview in Michigan for a job at this site but failed to get it.  I thought that it looked not a bad place to work – overlooking the river.  On the way out of the docks I stopped to ask where the bus station was at the security hut.  I walked into the town and discovered there was a bus in five minutes – just enough time to go to buy a chocolate thick shake at the local burger bar. It was a new bus and not too bad a 50-minute journey back to Hunstanton.

I then had trouble getting a lift back to Thornham but when I was half way there an elderly lady stopped and drove me the rest of the way – she was also a keen walker she said.  


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