Tuesday, 29 August 2017

Day: 243 23/9/01 Warkworth to Craster

Weather:  Fine, cloudy, breezy.

Distance:  20.5 km (12.7 miles)    Total Distance:   3115 miles

This was to be a much better day, if only because it was more eventful and the scenery more varied.  It started with Irene in the B&B telling me the traumas of having one of their guest houses filled with single men on a seven week 7-day a week contract at the nearby Alcan works, and how they tend to get a bit raucous.

I parked in Walkworth and walked down the same track again to the sea. This time though at the bottom of the track where it turned left for the golf course and right for a caravan park was a brand new BMW that had gone straight on and come to rest straddling a concrete block.  There was no sign of it having been stolen so I concluded, may be wrongly, that it was a golfer trying to catch last orders the previous evening at the golf club house!

After a mile walk north along the beach it was necessary to get up onto the cliff top so I cut inland through the golf course, on a public right of way might I add, and then on the cliff top path for a mile.  I didn’t see a hung over sad BMW owner though.  On to the beach again and north onto Alnmouth.  I had half hoped that the river was small enough to wade. There was after all a footpath marked on the map across it but there was no chance.  It was pretty deep and wide.  This meant an hours walk around, first up a hill to a cross and then down to the ruins of an ancient but very small church then over marshland and up onto the main road where I walked along a new Millennium footpath / cycle way that went parallel to the A-road – very nice too.  I met an elderly walker – backpacking his way to Newbiggin and was impressed he had been walking for over a fortnight! 

I hunted for a café in Alnmouth and was pleased when I found one open.  Unfortunately it was very disappointing.  I had the carrot cake and a cup of coffee – both were incredibly small.  I should have said I didn’t want it when I saw the meagre size of the portion but as usual we Brits don’t get cross until after we have left the place.  Instead I seethed and headed north again through the car park and onto the beach.  

At Seaton House I got up onto the cliff tops – well cliffs are a bit of an exaggeration.  The path went through a very weird caravan park – they were all run down and grass was knee high. It was also difficult to find a way through.  Eventually I got back onto the beach and north to Bolmer.  

It was good to get back on some coastal path walking proper.  I walked quickly past a pair of walkers near Howick and then came to an abrupt halt when I realised I had dropped my map – I had rather stupidly been carrying it in the small of my back and it must have slipped out.  I only had to retrace my steps about half a mile when I saw a mum and daughter out for a hike and asked them.  She admitted rather embarrassingly that she had bagged it – better that than leave it there we both agreed!

Just short of Craster I came upon a walking group stopped and pointing out to sea at a school of dolphins – a great spectacle.  They were heading south diving in and out of the water.  When they had gone the party set off only to come to a standstill again.  I barged past them only for me to be embarrassed this time because they had stopped because one of them had a nose bleed – I think they were over-reacting a bit because one of them was trying to find the whistle!

When I waited for a bus in Craster a wide cockney lad called over to me and asked where I was going and offered me a lift.  He was a real Harry Enfield character.  We walked up to his 4X4 and started our hair-raising journey with him grabbing the map off me from time to time.  It was fortunate because a man in a car stopped us and told us the road ahead was blocked – that’s why my bus was late and would probably have never come!  Harry (I’ll call him that even though it probably wasn't his nane!) – was a diver, plumber and virtually everything else I think.

He dropped me at Walkworth, asked I mention him in any book I wrote, and I drove to friends in Brigg where Pam made tea and we then went out for a beer.


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