Tuesday, 29 August 2017

Day: 249 16/6/02 Bowness-on-Solway to Abbey Town

Weather:  Fine.

Distance:  25 km (15.5 miles)    Total Distance:   3199 miles

Wallsend B&B was the best B&B I've have stayed in on the trip and was definitely under-priced at £22 per night for this 4 star accommodation.  Patsy’s breakfast was a real treat – melon to start with and an enormous fry full of good quality ingredients. 

I shared a table with a young American couple from Rayleigh, North Carolina. His name was Scott – I don’t know why I had to ask him where he was from – it was pretty obvious.  They were on a 10 day whistle stop tour of England and Scotland with a day o two in Paris thrown in for good measures.  They had ended up in this far flung desolate part of the world because they had booked it on the internet – I guess you can not see the contour lines when you book on the internet and don’t realise that where you should be as a tourist is some forty miles south in the Lake District.  They were on their way from Bath to Holy Island and I guess therefore were on the wrong side of the country too.

The weather looked very much like it was going to rain and sure enough when I stepped out into the open it started.  I donned my waterproofs but had only just put them on when it stopped again and stayed dry for the rest of the day.  

Today was going to be all road walking so I wore trainers rather than boots.  I headed out west along a road that went to nowhere other than looped around an area I later was told was called the Island.  I could tell it was going to be a quiet walk when I saw a gate across the road!  Cows lined the sides of the roads in places as they had the previous day.  As it was such a late summer the birds were still singing loud. 

I plodded on for mile after mile without stopping, there being nowhere sensible to stop added to the fact that I wanted to get to a pub to watch Ireland play Spain in the second round of the World Cup.  Once the road headed south I stated to pass a radio listening station.  I passed a recent memorial to someone who had died, I guessed from a road accident judging by the gap in the fence at the same place.  I chatted to a man walking his dog who told me about where I was heading and then once I got into Anthorne the roads got a little busier and boys and their dads were out playing football on the local playing fields. 

I reckoned that if I carried on without stopping I could get to Newton Arlosh may be without missing too much of the football.  I cracked on which wasn’t too difficult as it was as flat as a pancake for most of the time.  The road got ominously quiet again which concerned me from a hitchhiking point of view.  I got to the village dead on 12.20 KO time.  The pub looked great from the outside but was dead quiet – no cars in the car park – only a decorators van!  'Closed for Refurbishment' would have been a good sign to put on the outside rather than leave me trying all the locked doors!

I sat down, had a chocolate bar and a drink of water and headed out of the village looking mournfully through the windows of houses where people were watching the match in the feint hope of being asked in to join them.

The road swung inland but I carried on along a track to a farm where even the dogs normally guarding such premises appeared to be absent – presumably watching the football.  Once again I was listening on my son's mini-radio and the walking passed quickly.  Passing over a disused railway bridge I rejoined the main (huh!) road and entered Abbey Town some 15 minutes later.  

The thought of tracking down the abbey and reading its history never entered my mind and I desperately tried to find the village pub.  Packed to the rafter it wasn’t!  There were about ten people in it – only one other man watching the match and drinking bottled Guinness – the others playing pool and appearing oblivious to the fact that they kept standing in the way of the telly.  It was a disappointing match that went into extra time and then penalties.  Ireland had the best chances but even the never seemed all that threatening.  I knew once it came to penalties it would all be over – the Irish not being very confident in that department. 


 I was pretty relaxed about getting a lift back to Bowness when I left the pub, even though it was a very remote corner of the country. I think it must have been the couple of pints of Guinness.   I had to walk for about 20 minutes to get the first lift.  It had just started to rain and I had taken to sheltering under a tree on the opposite side of the road to the direction I wanted to go in so every time I saw a car coming I dashed across the road.  A lady popped out of the farmhouse I was outside I think to make sure I wasn’t some sort of weirdo playing chicken with the traffic.  A man stopped on his way home from being called into work at the flourmill in Siloth.  He took me as far a Kirkbride and appologised for not being able to take me to Bowness but he had to dash home to give the car to his wife.  It wasn’t long after I got a lift with an elderly couple who were out for a Sunday drive and took me all the way to Bowness – the long way around the coast – the way I had walked – I think they were testing me out to make sure that my story was true about having walked that way!

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