Thursday, 7 January 2016

Day: 198 15/2/99 Snape Maltings to Sizewell

Weather:  Cool, calm and calm.

Distance:  21km ( 13.0 miles)    Total Distance:   2582miles

A smashing cooked breakfast served with a copy of the Telegraph in a warm breakfast room confirmed that this B&B was difficult to fault.  It was so new that the toaster provided to make my toast gave off that new electrical appliance smell when I turned it on to make my toast.

I parked at Snape Maltings car park where the weather was cold, still and misty.  I walked over the river and then turned right down eastwards.  The Environment Agency were working on drainage work and making a right mess of the path but I got past without too much trouble.  From then on for the next hour was a fantastic walk via what I later learnt was the Sailors Path, the path trodden out by sailors who’s boats came into Snape and they then walked down to Aldeburgh to get accommodation.  The mist was slowly clearing and the sun getting through.  That combined with the stillness of the morning made it spectacular walking weather without anyone to be seen.  There was loads of bird-life around both in and out of the woodland areas.

The path came out on the Aldeburgh road a couple of miles before the town.  For the next hundred or so yards there was no footpath, but things improved near the golf course and things became safer.  Just before the town I took a right turn through a park and then another right to head once again out onto some sea defences.  Something made me think that these would be the last sea defences I would see for quite a while.  

After another half an hour or so I came out on the sea wall at Slaughden.  I turned right and walked up almost as far as I was allowed to the Martello tower, around that and then about turned and headed North.  I knew that from now on I would face minimal detours inland compared with what I had faced in the past couple of years.  To try to celebrate this fact I tried to find a tea shop in Aldeburgh but failed.  The town looked busy enough but the only busy shop I saw was the queues outside the Fish and Chip shop as it was lunchtime.  Having failed in my search I turned back down to the promenade, and stopped on the outskirts to have a snack from my rucksack. 

I was heading for Sizewell and seemed to be making very good progress, so decided to take the next bit very leisurely.  I was walking along a heath-land nature reserve and was walking so slowly that I was overtaken by a middle aged lady who walked up to the outskirts of Thorpness around a post and then back again. 

I tried at Thorpness once again to find a tea shop and was much more successful this time – I seemed to have a choice of two!  I chose the first I came to and it was an OK choice.  At this time of year you stumble upon those properties that have just been taken over and are full of owners trying to make the best of it.  This was one of those and the new owner was in evidence trying to sell his new style to anyone who would listen – how much money he had put into it, the new carpet, his long hours and what a success he hoped it would be. Judging by the number of people the on a blustery February afternoon – he was onto a winner, but judging by the fact that he charged £1.74 for a piece of average chocolate cake, he may find their custom short lived.  I bought a copy of the Daily Express because I had just got into doing Codebreakers – those type of crosswords where each letter had a number and you had to work out the crossword using only the numbered letters.

From Thorpness to Sizewell I walked along the beach which was comparatively easy because the tide was out leaving some hard sandy areas neat the bottom of the beach.  Slowly the power station at Sizewell got bigger and bigger.  I was still feeling good but decided to stop there because there was nowhere more sensible to stop for quite a while after that. 

I strolled up to the top of the beach, past the public conveniences perched on the beach itself and the closed up tea-rooms called very amusingly Sizewell T.  Sizewell has nothing more to it than a small fishing fleet, a row of houses and a pub, and of course the power station and a pub, outside which I started to hitch.  I got a lift no trouble from a man who worked at the power station and was taking a half-day to go to the dentist.  He took me to Leiston where I walked to the outside of the village and hitched again.  This time it took longer to get a lift and I eventually started walking.  I was in the next village by the time I got a lift – from another contractor at Sizewell A who had been on a job of welding up the boiler there.  It seemed to have been a long and technically difficult job performed by doing the whole weld at elevated temperatures and heating up the weld and cooling it down in one go rather than in small sections – I think I understood what he meant anyway. 

He dropped me at the turning off to Snape and after a few yards walking I did nor hitch any more because it was too short a walk to go.  At Snape Maltings I changed my shoes and then explored one of the craft shops, bought a card to send to my parents and then went back to the B&B for a hot soak.  For tea I went to a pub just a mile down the road, the Parrot and something, and had a great meal of duck in black cherry and ginger sauce, and a nice pint of Adnams bitter. It was only spoilt by the fact that the young waitress put me to sit next to another couple rather than in a quieter part of the dining area which meant that I was eavesdropping on their conversation.

I then drove back and parked the car at the B&B before going to explore the town again.  I passed a couple of pubs that did not look too inviting and ended up in the King’s Head at the other end of the town.  This too was not too good, the beer was acidic and both the bar and the lounge were occupied by people speaking at the top of their voices. 


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