Tuesday 29 August 2017

Day: 246 25/3/02 Beal to England/Scotland Boarder (Berwick)

Weather:  Fine, breezy.

Distance:  22 km (13.7 miles)    Total Distance:   3153 miles

I had a couple of days holiday to use up by the end of the week and fortunately they turned out to be fine walking weather days.  I travelled up the evening before and stayed in Wooler Youth Hostel which was an old barracks type building on the outskirts of the town that had been used by the Women’s Land Army in the war.  I travelled up straight from work in Derby and called in for a McDonalds near Caterick and got to the youth hostel at about 9.30.  It was relatively quiet and I got talking to an elderly couple that appeared to be walkers and a younger mother who was telling me about Ironbridge where we were going to visit as a family over Easter.     

I was up and out of the hostel by 7.30 and had parked the car at the start of the causeway over to Lindisfarne by 8.00.  It was quiet and very pleasant atmosphere.  I savoured the peace!  The first couple of miles walking was along sea defences and then it was down onto the beach for the next stint.  The sand was firm and the walking reasonable.  It was sunny but the sun was behind me.  I thought that would change tomorrow when I started heading south on the west coast! 

At the end of the beach where the rocks began I rested on a log and took in the view and the atmosphere. I feared that I was approaching civilisation and that my peace would son be shattered.  I walked along the road for a while but soon headed off it again onto a path that was initially very poor in front of Cagie’s Plantation but then improved as it followed the railway track into Berwick.  

The path gained height so that when Berwick approached there was a good view of the bay.  I descended down onto the promenade where there was evidently civil engineering going on and asked a local lady if I could continue along the beach.  She gave me detailed directions that basically entailed keeping to the beach, turning left at the end and into Berwick.

I was just in the mood for some elevenses and what should I pass but a café.  A mug of coffee and scone and jam came to £1.20 so you can see it wasn’t exactly on the tourist trail.  Over the historic bridge and along the city walls of the Tweed made an interesting walk before turning north again with the border well in mind.  

All of a sudden the scenery changed from the dunes of Northumberland to cliffs, waves and sea birds. I strode past a couple of golf courses and a caravan park very much enjoying the scenery and the wildlife.  The outskirts of Berwick died away and I was in the country again.  It was like being back in west Wales.  

I approached another caravan park, this time a much more down market one.  I had to walk through it and then into a field again to get to the border.  I wondered if there would be any sort of sign to say I had reached the border but I needn’t have worried because just inland from where I presumed the border was the main east coast train line had a big sign up saying England – Scotland. 

I took some photographs and made a phone call to my Dad. I think that probably cheered him up as he had recently been diagnosed with anemia and was awaiting some test results.  Margaret was at work so I couldn’t call her so I called a friend instead.  I felt pretty chuffed to have made it this far – a real milestone.

To get back to Berwick I walked back to the caravan site and then onto the main road.  I spotted a bus stop and tried to use my mobile phone to call and see when the next bus was due but nobody seemed to understand where I was so I ended up walking back into Berwick.  

I had a timetable for buses from there back to Beal.  I had time for a celebratory ice cream before the bus arrived.  Although the bus said Beal it actually only went to the turn off for Beal so I hitched my way back to the causeway.  I got a lift from a man from Northern Ireland who now lived in North Wales.

I said goodbye to the east coast and drove down to Newcastle and then over to Once Brewed Youth hostel on Hadrian’s Wall stopping to get some food in Safeways on the way.  The hostel was fine but my meal was oily and I struck up conversation with nobody that night.


 


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